The Bihu Mekhela
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Intricacies and details of the Mekhela Chador made from ahimsa silk.
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Surrounded by West Bengal and countries like Bhutan and Bangladesh, Assam is known to be one of the most vibrant states amongst the seven sisters. It is also popular for its tea gardens, natural beauty and beautiful people. Its centric and key location in the northeast and the easy accessibility to the rest of the country makes it a gateway to the other states located there. Assam could also be referred to as the melting pot of cultures. The inhabitants are a mix of various races such as Mongoloid, Indo-Burmese, Indo-Iranian and Aryan. The natives are known as “Asomiya” (Assamese), which is also the state language. Various tribes such as Bodo, Rabha, Miri, Mishimi, Karbi, co-exist in the state and each one of them has their own unique culture, tradition, lifestyle, fashion etc.
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Weaving is an integral part of the Assamese culture and every Assamese woman takes pride in that. Both cotton and silk with exquisite designs are woven in their looms. Assam is known for the superior variety of silk which is produced only there, namely, Muga Silk, Pat Silk, and Eri Silk. These fabrics have earned worldwide recognition. The most popular of them all is the Muga Silk, which is naturally golden in colour and as mentioned is manufactured only in Assam and nowhere else. It is said that weaving in Assam is done with such intricacy and detailing, and is also associated with folk life, that the outcome is beautiful. In Gandhiji’s words “Assamese women weave fairy tales in their clothes”.
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One of the most popular traditional garments made with the above-mentioned fabrics is the “Mekhela Chador”. It is a 2-piece sari set. This unique piece of fashion is not only available in Assam but in Delhi as well. Bihu Bazaar, earlier located in Central Market Lajpat Nagar and currently in Kalkaji is a boutique which stocks Assamese clothes for women. Launched in 2014 they stock authentic variety of the sari set which are especially designed by the owner and designer Naveena Swapnabh. As Naveena herself told us that “Sualkuchi is the hub where most of the weaving is done” and she too sources the fabric for her sarees from there. In fact, in every 6 months she travels to Assam with her designs and then gets them manufactured while there. As a Designer and boutique owner she stocks “Mekhela Chador’s” varieties in cotton, pat silk, limited quantities of muga silk and occasional collections of Nooni silk and raw silk. Naveena also briefed us about the fact “that all these varieties of silks which have been mentioned above come under the umbrella of Ahimsa Silk as no silkworms are harmed during the manufacturing process”. The cotton version of the 2-piece sari could be worn in the scorching Delhi heat also. The “Mekhela Chador” is an interesting variation from the regular sari, which is worn almost all over India. As recently as 2nd February 2017 Preity Zinta graced the ramp in a “Mekhela Chador” for designer Sanjukta Dutta on the second day of Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2017. While this was a first for any celebrity, Preity wearing it not only made it appear all over media but also made people aware of the existence of such a beautiful traditional and fashionable garment. While sticking to traditional fabrics for the “Mekhela Chador”, Naveena also ventured into fusion with other varieties of silk such as Tussar mixed with Muga. As Naveena said “she has a sizeable clientele, who keep ordering and then by their word of mouth her base expands”. She also has foreigners approach her for fabrics and when she informs that she stocks only the sari set, they proceed onto buying the sari set and using that as fabric and making various outfits from that.
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Price: -
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Pat silk with threadwork – Rs 8000 onwards
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Pat silk with Guna/Gold dust work – Rs 12000 onwards
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Lower Quality of Cotton – Rs 1500 – 1600
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Authentic original version of the cotton sari – Rs 4000 onwards
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Tussar and Muga – Rs 8000 onwards
Where to buy: - Bihu Bazaar
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Located: - Flat 15 B, Pocket A-14, Himgiri Apartments, Kalkaji Extension, Near Crowne Plaze Okhla.
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Nearest Metro Station: - Govindpuri
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Contributed by: - Aditi Arora
